Long neglected, but cherished in memory, the jelly roll holds a prominent place in American home baking. Typically a sponge-cake batter baked in a rectangular pan, then filled and rolled, the jelly roll is a simple pleasure, best eaten when very fresh. In "The Dictionary of American Food and Drink" (Ticknor and Fields, 1983), author John F. Mariani explains, "Jelly cakes were known at least since the 1860s, but jelly rolls were not cited in print until 1895."
A basic jelly-roll batter contains eggs, sugar, flour, leavening (usually baking powder), salt and flavoring. Its volume is created by whipping eggs and sugar until quite light, thus forming a thick base for the dry ingredients.
Preparations and Ingredients To begin, line a jelly-roll pan (10 1/2 by 15 1/2 by 1 inch) with wax paper so that it extends about 3 inches above the two 10 1/2-inch sides. Press the paper along the inside edges with your fingertips and coat the inside with nonstick cooking spray, especially the sides and corners of the paper (alternatively, lightly grease the paper with vegetable shortening). Once the batter is poured in, the paper will settle down. If the paper is at all unruly, dab little smears of shortening on the surface of the baking pan in a few places, then fit in the wax paper.
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Have at hand a large sheet of baking parchment paper, generously sprinkled with confectioners' sugar. As soon as the jelly roll is baked, the cake will be inverted onto the paper. Typically, a closely woven tea towel (linen, never terry cloth) is used for this procedure. Some people prefer the towel's pliability, but I think it is a mess to launder the towel after the warm cake crumbs mingle with the sugar. Using parchment paper is a decent, workable shortcut, and it can be wiped clean quickly and reused.
As you measure and set out ingredients, warm the (uncracked) eggs in water for 10 minutes; this encourages good volume and a fluffy batter. Take care to sift the flour first, before measuring, then twice more with the baking powder and salt. Repeated sifting makes it easier to incorporate the dry ingredients into the egg-and-sugar mixture, lightens the texture of the finished roll and promotes a tender "crumb."
Preparing the Batter Beat the eggs in the bowl of a free-standing mixer on moderately high speed for 5 minutes, until light and lemon-colored. Add the superfine sugar all at once and continue beating on high for 4 to 5 minutes, or until quite thick and mousse-like. I urge you to use superfine sugar, for its fine grains dissolve readily and that keeps the batter (and, ultimately, the cake) light.
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Add the milk, mixed with the extracts, and beat for 30 seconds. (The somewhat liquefied mixture is the correct texture for this stage.)
Remove mixer bowl from the base. Sift over the dry ingredients and, using a sturdy whisk, combine by gently stirring. The following recipe uses all-purpose flour, but 7/8 cup plus 1 tablespoon sifted cake flour can be substituted. The cake flour will produce an ever-so-slightly finer/softer grain.
After numerous tests, I have found that a good whisk is the best implement for combining the delicate beaten eggs and flour. The batter should be rather billowy, soft and completely free of any lingering particles of flour. Pour (or spoon) the batter into the paper-lined pan, carefully smoothing it into the corners with a spatula or palette knife, and bake.
After about 12 minutes of baking, the sponge cake will look puffy and the top will be a light golden color.
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Filling and Rolling As soon as the sponge cake is baked, invert it onto the sugared parchment paper (or towel). Immediately peel away all corners of the wax paper, then remove the entire sheet, beginning at one 10 1/2-inch side. Freeing the corners first guards against tearing the whole cake. If there are any large, crunchy crumbs baked onto the edge of the roll, trim them away with a small paring knife. Spread the jelly over the entire surface of the roll (it will be a thin layer) to within about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of the sides.
Roll up the cake, beginning at a 10 1/2-inch side. The cake will form little cracks here and there, and that is predictable -- and traditional -- for this type of dessert. Transfer the cake to a serving platter by gingerly tucking two long spatulas underneath it for support. When the roll has completely cooled, sift confectioners' sugar liberally over top and sides. Serve the jelly roll within a few hours of baking.
Beyond the Jelly (or Jam) Filling Jam or jelly may be the definitive filling for a sponge roll, but there are other scrumptious choices: Firmly whipped cream (recipe follows) spread over fresh fruit or fruit butter lightened with whipped cream.
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To use either, first roll up the still-warm sponge cake right along with the parchment paper, and let it cool completely. Then gently unroll the cake and cover with the filling.
For fresh fruit, scatter 1 cup berries (raspberries, blackberries or blueberries) or about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups peeled and sliced peaches or nectarines on top of the roll, then carefully spread over the whipped cream, which will anchor the fruit, and roll up.
For fruit butter, prepare half of whipped cream recipe and gently fold in 3/4 cup fruit butter (such as apple, pear, pumpkin or peach). Spread this over the sponge cake and roll up.
Dredge the top of either roll with confectioners' sugar. This type of filled roll must be served immediately.
LIGHT & TENDER JELLY ROLL (13 slices)
This is flavored with vanilla extract and a touch of almond extract. Almond extract can be replaced by coconut, lemon or orange extract, depending upon the filling used.
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7/8 cup (1 cup less 2 tablespoons) sifted all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 extra-large eggs
1 cup superfine sugar
1/4 cup milk blended with 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract and 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
Confectioners' sugar, for sprinkling
3/4 to 1 cup jelly or jam, warmed slightly to melt down
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a 10 1/2-by-15 1/2-by-1-inch jelly-roll pan with wax paper, allowing paper to extend about 3 inches above the short sides. Lightly coat paper with nonstick spray. Resift the flour twice with the baking powder and salt.
Beat eggs in large bowl of an electric mixer on moderately high speed for 5 minutes. Add sugar and beat for 4 to 5 minutes longer on high speed. Add the milk mixture and beat for 30 seconds. Remove mixing bowl from stand. Sift dry ingredients over whipped eggs and sugar. Whisk together until particles of flour have disappeared, but avoid overbeating.
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Pour and scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake about 12 minutes, or until golden and set.
Invert cake onto baking parchment paper sprinkled with confectioners' sugar. Peel away the wax paper. Spread the jam or jelly over the sponge cake and roll it up. Transfer to a serving plate and dust the top and sides with confectioners' sugar.
To serve, slice the jelly roll on the diagonal using a serrated knife.
Per slice: 154 calories, 3 gm protein, 33 gm carbohydrates, 2 gm fat, 1 gm saturated fat, 56 mg cholesterol, 82 mg sodium
WHIPPED CREAM FILLING (Makes about 1 3/4 cups filling)
3/4 cup cold heavy (whipping) cream
1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Beat the cream in a chilled bowl until soft peaks are formed. Add the sugar and vanilla extract; continue beating until firm (not stiff) peaks are formed. Use the filling immediately.
Per tablespoon: 23 calories, 0 gm protein, 0 gm carbohydrates, 2 gm fat, 1 gm saturated fat, 9 mg cholesterol, 2 mg sodium
Lisa Yockelson's latest cookbook, "American Baking Classics: Baking for Gift-Giving," was published last fall by HarperCollins.
